Sitting at a seaside cafe and breathing the scent of the sea, walking about in the now quiet narrow streets of a seaside town that has just overcome the specter of summer season, having a break in a quieter part of the town at a local coffee shop, savoring scrumptious
home made snacks at one of those chic Stone House turned “Cafes” in the afternoon and soul searching; by myself, alone, solitary and lost! In short, spending time in an atmosphere devoid of pandemonium.There is a place I had avoided to visit throughout the hot summer days; Ayvalik, a place that is the metamorphosis of past and future and a world of dreams, I had heard. I have been thinking of Ayvalik for a few months now. The fact that I am not one of those who is addicted to modern city living, if I am to have a rest for a few days and indeed if I am to write about a place, such a place must be visited only in a season when thousands of tourists have done their stint and gone.
What a big mistake to limit Northern Aegean, especially the Bay of Edremit which Ayvalik is a part of, with the sun and sea only! It is just the right time to visit Ayvalık, end of September and all October! What I have in mind is not a town that appears to be like a large "Beach club". I am not interested in trends. What I want is an atmosphere, taste and air that are free of Sea and Sun Holiday mentality. The beauty of nature is only just starting to awake over here. Ayvalik has been in my mind for a few months now. Kozak Plateu extending over the dominating hills beyond, Mount Ida and especially the antiquity! Ayvalik, the capital of Eolya (Aeolis) and “father land” of olives must be at her best now.
With a current population of about 30,000, Ayvalik of Balikesir city is a seaside town on Northwestern shores of Turkey and is close to one of the thousands of antique ruins in Anatolia, the famous “Pergamon” (Bergama) as well as Assos and Troia. The town is listed as a Heritage Town by Norwich based – “The European Association of Historic Towns and Regions” (EAHTR).
Surrounded on Eastern side by pine forest and olive grove covered low hills and constructed on a narrow shore line, the settlement is a stones throw away from the Greek island of “Lesvos” (Midilli). A settlement with true antique feel, it is located in a superb bay, adorned with islands scattered about as if pearls over most magnificent blue waters, just as would be the case on many parts of the Aegean and Mediterranean shore line. The starkest traces of the multi cultural life in the area can be found at the graveyard: Right side for the Lesvos gentry, left side for the Crete gentry!
Known as “Kidonia” (Κυδωνίες – Kidonies meaning “Pear”) in antiquity, Ayvalik has a stormy past, struggles with the consequences of modernity and is faced with a future that will have its share of environmental catastrophe.
Ayvalik has been home to Mysia, Hittites, Phrygians, and Lydian in first age, Roman Empire and eastern Roman Empire in Middle Ages and Ottoman cultures as of 14th Century. Alibey (Cunda) and Tavuk Islands are the most known two of the “Hekatonisa” (means "Fragrant islands " in Greek), a sleepy group of 22 barren islands that will greet you as you enter the town borders. The islands look and feel more mysterious especially in autumn; some islands are home to the ruins of churches and chapels that are the witnesses of Christian past. The Churches and other antiquity in Ayvalik are important remnants of past civilizations. Cunda (Alibey) Island, which separates Ayvalik from the open sea, can be reached via regular motor boats. “Taksiyarhis Church” is the most impressive and beautiful of the cluster of churches and monasteries on the island. Another structure that has an important part in the historical texture of Ayvalik town center is the “Fanoremeni Church”. The church has apparently changed its function after the population exchange in 1925, most likely as a result of lack of community, and was worn down. The structure was put to use as an Olive Oil factory in 1950 and was especially eroded further in that period and finally, the Ministry nationalized it.
Just as was the case with the shoreline of the Aegean and The Mediterranean, Greeks and Turks lived side by side for a long time. A considerably large Greek population thrived in Ayvalik up until 1922. It was, as it were, a sanctuary for Christians in 16th and 17th Centuries. Literature says it that “Hasan Pasha the Algerian”, when lost the battle at Cesme naval wars took refuge at Ayvalik together with what is left of his armada, with the guidance of a local Priest. The priest did not know who they were. Hasan Pasha did not forget the good deeds of the priest and granted a virtual autonomy to Greeks of Ayvalik when he became the Vizier. That act resulted in Ayvalik becoming a cultural hub in 19th Century. Further, in 1773 the Ottoman Muslims were barred from settling in the town. As it enjoyed its newfound freedoms and grew into a cultural center as of beginning of 19th century, the “Kydonians” (Ayvalik people) rebelled in 1821 and seized 2 Ottoman ships, which resulted in the whole population being exiled. Unfortunately, history recorded that Kydonians burnt the town as they left. Come the year 1827, Sultan Mahmut II. allowed 19,000 of the Greek population to return but, no more was the autonomous status they had enjoyed. Soon, Ayvalik began to gain importance once more. Ayvalik is known to have been subject to Pirate attacks due to the suitably placed coves. This must be the reason why the structures in the “Old Town” are clustered around narrow streets side by side. At that time, Ayvalik was legendary for the success of its citizens in smuggling activities.
Approximately a hundred years after the events, the people of Ayvalik were on the road again to exile. Subsequent to Greek invasion of the region and the defeat (1919–23), they were included in the population exchange agreement. Moslems from Lesvos, Crete and Macedonia were settled in their place.
Today, the restaurants lining the sea front promenade offer the famed papalina fish, other seafood and superb vegetable foods cooked in olive oil to the liking of the gourmet. It is as if the Greek Homes on the island are on a different plane, the scents from the past still hang in the air and gives the island more a mystique charm. One can visit the “footprints of Satan” near Çamlık Orman Kampı. Situated on an old lava deposit, the location looks like a dining table. Thus the name given “The table of Satan”. You will have the opportunity to enjoy your coffee by the seaside as the sun sets but, the advice I have is to go up to the table of Satan. The panorama of Ayvalik is most exquisite from that location and is such that one comprehends why Satan would choose that spot for its dinner time!
It is as easy as a pie to dream on for hours before such a view.
On the other hand, Hakkı Bey Peninsula is calm as if a mother’s hug. Ayvalik is a typical Aegean town; light rain in winter, dry and hot weather in summer. Despite its Mediterranean climate, the town is open to Southwest and Northeasterly winds and is not suffocating, as some places may be, when İmbat and Meltemi winds blow.
Old Stone houses, masonry and wood workmanship on doors and windows are all tips from the prosperous distant past. Virtually “an open air museum”, it is possible to see and feel the scenes that froze in the narrow streets of Ayvalik hundreds of years ago. The houses, which proudly adorn the terraced hillsides starting from the shore line, are proof of the sense of aesthetics of the inhabitants. The neo-classical architecture of Ayvalik homes, the acacia flowers, olive groves, Raki and Fish feast by the shore, cobble stone narrow streets and the food cooked in olive oil , Marrow flower dolmades and of course Ayvalik toast are just some of the things that can be detailed!
This is one of the rare towns of our country, especially along the shore line, that is “an expression of the past”. The reddish color stone collected from Sarimsakli quarries have been used as the main material in construction of the many structures.
“İlk Kurşun Tepesi” must be said to be one of the things to be seen in Ayvalik. This is the best location to absorb what the magnificent panorama offers. Than comes loafing about in town, examining the old structures and touching them. Most of the houses in the town have been built in 18th and 19th centuries. Except for the ones on Cunda Island, there were more than ten churches in Ayvalik in the past, but today only some of them are still standing. Its churches, shores, doors, architecture, pediments, door handles, windows, wood and masonry workmanship are well worth seeing and are sure to carry those curious about the past to just there.
13 kilometers from the town center, historical Altinova with a fertile prairie and a beach that glitters due to the granite dust carried by Madra Creek is another alternative for the summer time sea goers. Sarımsakli on the other hand is 8 kilometers from the town center and is full of modern facilities, just as it is expected from the existing “Holiday maker” mentality. A hub of night life in Ayvalik, Sarimsakli is home to various entertainment facilities that appeal to different tastes. Sarimsakli and Altınova are part of a series of beaches that extend all the way to Dikili in İzmir province; I am talking about a 30 kilometer distance! One must not forget to walk barefoot on the velvet soft sands of the beach that extends for miles.
For those interested in underwater life, the region is literally a limitless resource. The remnants of Sea life, the Aegean life of millennia are part of the nature to the utmost. There are two main sections that are open for diving in Ayvalik. The 22 individual diving points are sanctuary to Cacti like red-yellow sponges, various fish varieties such as bream, perch, gilthead bream, cardinale and many more that I do not know the name of as well as such crustacean as lobster and crayfish. Protected species like Flamingos, Caspian Gulls, Cormorants and Sardinian Warbler are attracting bird watchers to Ayvalik in flocks! I have later learned that 442 different bird varieties belonging to 6 different bird species were ascertained in Ayvalik in October of 2009.
I have in the past heard from many travelers that “Ayvalik is not like Bodrum, Fethiye or Marmaris, it is like there is no action there!”’. An educated guess indeed. There is tranquility, inner peace, harmony, wonderful scenery, superb nature, history, nostalgia, pure oxygen and turquoise waters in Ayvalik. Ayvalik has olive oil, pine forests, Greek gods, and traces of Ottomans, Roman Giants, Byzantium feudal lords, eyes of the past and what is left for the future. Autumn is in Ayvalik.
