Mut - More treasures awaiting us, but hidden!

Wednesday, 11 December 2013 00:00
Written by Portal Editor

Mut - Further preparations for the planned Alaturka Tour 2016 in Karaman necessitate another visit in the region of Mut.

Since our colleague Ebru also wants to join us, but was still in Izmir, we arrange to meet at the bus station in Konya.

I'm somewhat surprised when, during the crossing of the Taurus Mountains from Manavgat towards Konya, there are suddenly heavy snow showers.

In fact, there's still plenty of snow here on the mountain pass at an altitude of 1,825 meters.

The intercity bus from Izmir is, once again, almost on time to the minute; it's always amazing how well the bus companies manage their timing. Since it's still about 110 kilometres to Karaman, we set off immediately.

We meet our friend Patrick, who is already in Karaman and waiting for us. Together with Patrick Andre, who a few years ago set the Turkish long-distance paragliding record of 262 kilometres and is currently providing expert advice on setting up launch sites, we meet for tea before heading to the hotel in Mut.

Mut - Typical bay windows and wooden doors

We still have the opportunity to use the hotel's hammam and sauna before calling it a day. After a delicious breakfast the next morning, we have a little time to explore the alleys behind the hotel before heading back to the local kaymakam (traditional stone houses). Patrick had told us there were supposed to be many old, almost derelict stone houses, so we set off, camera in hand, of course.

And indeed, just a block further on, we come across the first Ottoman stone houses, boasting their typical wooden bay windows. Naturally, there are many details that catch our eye. How astonishing and natural old artifacts like column capitals or even entire column segments, probably originating from the Roman city of Claudiopolis, have been integrated into the houses. Our pointing out details is met with Patrick's comments of "unbelievable" or "impossible." It is indeed astonishing where column segments were used, sometimes simply to support the roofing felt.

One of the houses still displays a wonderful fabric ceiling covering, applied in long strips, similar to modern wallpaper. I'm tempted to mention these decorative items to the Kaymakam. Do the residents here even know what treasures they possess?

We are amazed at how well-preserved this caravanserai is. Murat and Patrick actually wanted to show us the progress at the launch site, but due to the heavy snowfall overnight, the track up is impassable. We decide to bring up the visit to the Kaymakam and arrive at his office a short time later. A friendly welcome and the obligatory tea await us. We quickly arrived at the topic of the old buildings, and we were somewhat surprised by Kaymakam's spontaneous idea to visit these treasures with us again. The necessary preparations were quickly made, and we drove to the first property, which belongs to the city administration.

On the way, I saw an entrance gate that immediately reminded me of a caravanserai. My inquiry yielded the answer I had already suspected: yes, there is a caravanserai in the city centre, which is privately used as a warehouse. We decided to stop there as well and go inside. We were amazed at how well-preserved this caravanserai is, and how well-maintained the courtyard itself is, even if it is used differently. I have rarely seen an old building in such excellent condition. Certainly, a gem for tourist destinations, which should be combined with others.

Cistern for the Supply of Ancient Claudiopolis

The guide notices our enthusiastic glances and comments and wants to show us another highlight.

Just outside Mut, we climb a small hill and arrive at another ancient building. Initially somewhat unsure of the purpose of this hall-like structure, I quickly think of it as a water reservoir similar to the Sunken Palace in Istanbul.

My suspicions are soon confirmed, as the water level is clearly visible due to the deposits. Like three adjacent barrel vaults supported by only a few columns, water must have been stored here to supply the nearby town.

The type of construction also suggests a Roman origin; perhaps this was a cistern for the supply of ancient Claudiopolis.

We then leave the town of Mut and drive towards Silifke, always following the Göksu River. After about 22 kilometres, a small dirt track suddenly branches off to the right, leading into the apricot orchards.

The dirt track climbs gently, and once we reach the plateau above, a magnificent view opens up to us: the Göksu River flows far below in the valley, and... a vast archaeological site. Here, the foundations of a cathedral are still visible, and further down lie dwellings from the Hittite period, easily recognizable by their mud-brick construction.

The local Muhtar (archaeologist) is already waiting for us and is kindly prepared to explain some of the excavations.

Under the direction of Professor Nicholas Postgate of Cambridge University and Dr. Mark Jackson of Newcastle University, further excavations are carried out here annually. Some of the finds are housed in the museum in Silifke. We also learn that the locals call the site Kilise Tepe, meaning church hill. We will write a separate report about this place.

On the way back, we made a brief stop at one of the bends of the Göksu River, as a flock of sheep was crossing the road. The setting sun is reflected in the river water, making for some beautiful photos. We're already excited to see what tomorrow will bring.

Please also read:

The Alahan Monastery near Mut

Alanya - Harpoon Fishing in the Harbour in front of the Red Tower